Ride to Deomali peak, Duduma falls and a visit to Ashakiran Hospital.
The year was 1997. I just completed my UG final
year exams in the month of November and was looking for a long journey,
something to feel the break I needed from the hectic studies which kept me
occupied for three long years. Soon I thought about my cousin brother living in
Koraput, Orissa. He was working for Asha
Kiran hospital as a social worker. My plan was to travel along with my
classmates who were from Vijayawada and then to travel alone to Vizag where my
brother would come to pick me and take to Ashakiran in Koraput district which
was 175 km away from Vizag.
But
the plan of God was different that gave me a lifetime memory to cherish.
More of my friends joined me for the journey to Vijayawada. We were spending
two days in Vijayawada, visiting Prakasam barrage, Machilipatnam beach and Gudiwada.
A day before I was supposed to take a
train for Vizag, I sent a telegram to my brother that I am coming and he has to
come and pick me up from Vizag railway station.
The
next day my Friend Jhansi put me in the train to Vizag. Seeing a group of 5 college
girls seated next to me, told them that I speak only English and Tamil and
requested them to see to that I meet and go with my brother in Vizag railway
station. The girls were very friendly and one of them told me that she did her
schooling in Chennai and started conversing with me in Tamil. They were buying
whatever vendors passed by our compartment and were offering me all that they
ate. After reaching the Vizag railway station, I got down and waited for my
brother. The girls were very helpful and stood for 20 minutes with me along
with their relatives. Wanted to be brave or trying to be, I don’t know, I told
them that I would wait and manage. They left and after a few minutes of waiting, I
started feeling that I should not be spotted as a stranger and give in mishaps.
Instead, I took a bold decision to travel alone. Took an auto and uttered state
express bus stand. The auto driver was talking to me in Telugu, i was
cautiously talking back in broken single words in Telugu like avunu, ekkada, entha, malli , tharovaatha
and many other words and tried my best to show that I am a native.
After
arriving at the state express bus stand, I got down and walked searching for the bus bay for Onukadeli
which I remember during our family trip to attend my brothers wedding, as the
left corner most in the bus stand. I enquired the “may I help you” counter
near that bay for the timing of the bus. The person was very friendly and after
knowing that I only speak English apart from Tamil, he told me that the bus left just
half an hour ago and the next bus is only the next day morning. Then he told
there is a bus which goes to Jeypore in Orissa which is 40 km away from Lamtaput, the place I am going. He took me by hand and told the conductor
of the bus in Telugu, that this person knows only English and make sure he gets
to Ashakiran hospital in Lamtaput. After that, the driver and conductor treated
me specially and the bus started moving. It was 10.30 in the night when the bus
reached Beja junction. This is the place I need to get down to travel 20 km in
opposite direction to reach Ashakiran hospital in Lamtaput. The people inside
the bus told in Hindi chor which I
could understand and insisted the conductor not to drop me there at that time.
Then one passenger offered me to take me home in the next stopping. But the conductor told me that I could stay with him in Jeypore in their room and said
that I can come back here to Beja junction the next day morning when the bus returns to Vizag from Jeypore. I
found that option to be safer and I stayed with driver and conductor sharing
their food. They both adjusted in one bed and they gave me a separate bed for
me. They did not understand my nature of the job as a physiotherapist but
understood as some special medical professional. The next day morning around 5
am we started after having tea and after reaching Beja junction I bid bye to
them with a heavy heart. I took their addresses too. After reaching Beja
junction, I was waiting in a bus stop and a man started speaking to me in Hindi
mixed English. He introduced him as a businessman who buys local produce and
sells elsewhere. I saw a sick man being carried by two-person in bedsheet tied
to the bamboo sticks. I had a few sample
tablets for general ailments which I got from my dad who was a general medical
practitioner. Seeing that man was having a high temperature, I gave a strip of Paracetamol.
To my surprise and which was not my intention, they carried him back to their
place, instead of bringing to Ashakiran hospital for further diagnosis and
treatment.
A crowded jeep stopped by with people sitting on top. I put my suitcase on top of
the jeep and stood on the back footplate of the jeep. I travelled for 20km in
that footplate. After reaching Ashakiran hospital, the manager came and gave me
my telegram that it was only received by them just an hour ago. She also told
that my brother and his wife are staying in Tikkerpada village nearby to learn
the local Gadaba language. So the manager
sent me with a native to take me to Tikkerpada village. He took me in a bicycle
and after reaching the river we boarded a boat with our cycle and sailed a 1km
stretch. After getting across I finally reached my brother who was surprised to
see me. I stayed with them for 19 days visiting upper Bonda tribe who were
considered head hunters in Bonda Hills,
experiencing Gadaba tribe and helping
the hospital by teaching a pharmacist to operate a piece of physiotherapy equipment.
A tribal rain wears to use during rainy season while working in fields.
With Hannah Alex, Dr Alex, Me and my sister in law Jamuna Herold. Dr Alex passed away recently due to a massive heart attack at his early 50’s. Dr Alex was accepted by the Bonda tribe to live among them but was unpredictable in behaviour due to their addiction to alcohol.
So now in 2020 after 22 years, I am going back with these memories wondering what God has in store for me to surprise this time.
The sequel begins....
Tentative plan:
20 November 2020 - Vellore to Vijayawada
21 November 2020 - Vijayawada to Lamtaput, Odisha via Bhadrachalam, Malkangiri
22-25 November 2020 - local visits
26 November 2020 - Lamtaput to Vijayawada via Arakku.
27 November 2020 - Vijayawada to Vellore.
Stopped by for breakfast after crossing Nellore. In a way, I missed travelling with a friend, especially while eating alone. No chit chat. No one to share those riding moments which we would soon forget. Started again after replenishing.
Breakfast stop just after Nellore
The ride was boring from Nellore to Ongole. A long stretch of
highway with bridges way too long and
high at Ongole. I was dumb to foresee the future like the politician who built
it. Under the bridge, I could only spot a railway track. I filled 10 litres of
petrol in a Hp petrol bunk close to Ongole.
Water break while nearing Guntur
I got a phone call from one of the drivers from the institution I am working. I could not ignore as I know he was on long leave due to paralysis. So I tried swiping the phone screen on my bike mobile holder to get connected. With my hand gloves, I was trying hard to do it as the screen was not responding to my touch. My eyes were more focussed on the mobile than on the road. BANG!!! I crashed into the back of a load Van and fell on the right side of the road. I got up and my right elbow and shoulders were in severe pain. The van driver came and helped me to lift the bike. He went back to check his vehicle for damage and to make a claim from me. Since I braked turning my handlebar to left and so my headlight cap and rings were crushed along with bending of the right side of leg guard.
The headlight cap and rings crashed
Right side Leg guard bent close to the footrest.
I fell to the right
side with an outstretched hand. I was sitting for some time on the bridge
parapet wall. I was self-assessing and I was sure that I sustained no fracture. I know for sure that its only a
ligament strain or a muscle sprain. I know it will take 3 days to assess clearly
as the whole region will be in protective muscle guarding causing pain on a
whole. The van driver left after checking and making sure that there was no
damage to his vehicle. I too started my bike but I could not lift my right arm
beyond 30 degrees at the shoulder. So I placed my right hand on the handlebar with
my left hand and rode to Vijayawada. I was thinking God, that nothing untoward
happened as fall from the bridge by being overthrown or run over by speeding
vehicle when on the ground. The GPS showed a wrong location of William Carey guest
house at Christurajapuram, Vijayawada. The innkeeper Ms Mounica sent me a
WhatsApp location and I could reach the place in no time. I was clumsy in handling my luggage and my ear
pod fell into a nearby ditch. I could spot it and put my hand into it as the
water was clear (I must say to my satisfaction) and took my ear pod. Waterproof
and was working fine. Thank God.
The room was neat and tidy with AC. The cost was 400/- per day. After settling down, took the last one roll that was packed my mom, as late lunch,
I went out to the hall to meet the guests who were staying there. I met three
youths from Tamil Nadu who were working for the campus crusade organisation. Jebaraj was from Palani, Sam was from Hosur
and John was from Avadi. They were involved in the youth ministry by creating
Mobile APPs and getting connected to
youths who are spending more time in the virtual world than with reality. They were
sharing stories about how they could prevent some incidents of youth s suicides by
providing counselling through mobile apps.
Later
they introduced me to Vamsi who is the brother of the innkeeper. Vamsi helped me to buy the spare parts for my
crashed headlight cap and rings (Rs 450/-). Vamsi also took me to the Royal Enfield
showroom to get it fixed. The showroom service staff were not so kind and
after paying 250/- without bill receipt they did fix the new parts with screws.
Vamsi was very helpful as a local guy with language and shrewd knowledge on
bikes. I could not ride in the local
Vijayawada traffic as they are making their own traffic rules. So Vamsi rode
and I sat as a pillion rider. I bought
1/2kg oranges as my night dinner. Took a 1000mg Pyrigesic tablet to
reduce inflammation and slept early by 9pm.
21/11/2020 SATURDAY Day 2
I got up at 3 am before the alarm. I had a cold water bath. There was no geyser. I mounted the bags on the bike. I started to ride around 4.50 am. The road was dusty with truck traffic till Ibrahimpatnam. There was heavy fog after Ibrahimpatnam and I could hardly see with the visor and so was lifting visor on and off.
I took the route to Lamtaput Odisha via Kothagudem, Badrachalam, Chintturu, Kalimela, Malkangiri from Vijayawada.
At Kothagudem, the bike hit the reserve and I filled petrol for 10 litres. The petrol bunk guy asked me whether I am police personnel. I said no and said that I am a doctor. Near Badrachalam, the Ambani brother welcomed me with the jio message and reminded that i have entered Chattisgarh. I might have been near to Chattisgarh but did not enter physically. The river bridge on Badrachalam was high and narrow.
After taking a few snaps, I crossed the river and went towards Nellipaka. I took a break to have breakfast at a roadside hotel which is also a house.
The children were playing around and getting ready for school. The elder sister told her younger brother that she will stitch a nice beautiful mask tomorrow and she managed to stitch a torn mask and prepared her brother for school. I asked for dosa and the children's mother gave a nice thin dosa with chutney and a very hot chilli paste. The chilli paste or chutney tasted nice with dosa. I had tea and two dosa for Rs 50/- The conversation was in Tamil and Telugu in perfect sync between us.
After that, I crossed Chintturu and rode along the river on my left side til I crossed Mottu village
At the village Mottu (partly Chattisgarh and partly Odisha), I entered Odisha. All throughout the journey, I did not encounter any
border checking but only eye scanning of me by the CRPF and curious looking
police personnel.
The road was nice with winding roads inside
the jungles. I reached Malkangiri and filled petrol for Rs 500, although it did
not hit the reserve. At the outskirts of Malkangiri, I stopped for a leak break.
I noticed the beautiful Malkangiri lake just ahead of me. It was an ecotourism
spot. I guess this part of Odisha has
more to offer for nature lovers and travellers than a regular tourists
destinations.
I reached Lamtaput at 2:50pm.
My sister in law "Jamuna Akka" served me hot boiled rice, Sambar,
Beans curry and Omelette. After relaxing
and sharing the riding stories, my cousin Herold, Niece Ashika and I went trekking behind the house to a
Rona village. The Rona tribe were considered as warriors and has a cross-thread
around their torso from shoulder to waist like Brahmins.
We
came back home by sunset and were reminiscing the old stories of my previous
trips. My cousin was surprised to hear me speaking some Gadaba words and
phrases, which I do remember after 22 years.
We
had chapati and chicken curry for dinner. The temperature was cold but I could
manage without thermal wears inside the house.
My
niece Ashika is in 13th grade, doing her schooling in Hebron, Ooty.
She has a great skill in drawing and painting pictures. The picture of a tribal
women she drew was sold for 10,000 rupees.
Ashika
was questioning and discussing with us about gender equality and how
Christianity is biased towards feminine gender. She asked why did Jesus choose
twelve male disciples and not even one female in the chosen twelve. We tried
our best to explain from the scripture verses in the bible how Jesus is not
partial. After Ashika left to her room, my cousin Herold was saying that if his son Theo would have been there in the discussion, it will stretch elaborate into Christianity on abortion, gay relationships and so on. I was wondering the maturity of younger generation these days. But I do believe that a rationale thinking is essential before following a faith.
Around
11pm, went to bed after taking Voveran tablet for my shoulder pain.
I was
denied permission to attend the chapel service the next day inside Ashakiran
Hospital as the community was strictly following 14 days quarantine period for
outsiders.
So
we made a plan to visit Tikkerpada village on Sunday.
21/11/2020
SUNDAY Day 3
Got up early but was lying in the bed till 6.30am.
Had tea and went for a morning walk with Herold in the Lamtaput-Jalput reservoir road for 4 km.
We passed by the Ashakiran hospital. There was a line of shops opposite to the hospital making good business with the patients. A shop owned by a person named Tutu has everything in his shop as it was catering to the needs of the Ashakiran community. He has in shops like Marmalade, baking powder, condensed milk, diet coke and all goods a departmental store in Chennai could offer.
Next
to Ashakiran hospital was Anand Niketan school campus. Recently a month ago,
the principal of the school was electrocuted to death. The power lines were
loosely connected by knots and unfortunately, the line got cut and fell on the
principal while riding his bike just in front of the school main gate. My
brother was explaining how he got entangled by the fallen power line.
Came back home and had a cup of tea again. We got ready and had bread toast and omelette. I told that I want to stay away from riding for a few days and so Herold took his scooter to go to Tikkerpada.
Herold
bought some chocolates for the kids in Tikkerpada village, from the Lamtaput
market
Herold
was speaking fluently speaking in Desiya, a dialect of Odiya to the local people
making jokes.
Inside the boat.
We
entered the Tikkerpada village and the people could not recognise us with the
masks. Once Herold greeted them in Gadaba, then they exclaimed “Agiyon” meaning
Master. Herold was teaching them to read and write as he learned Gadaba to the
elders in the village. The tribal languages will not have letters of their own
and remain only spoken. So a linguist like my cousin will develop letters
borrowing from Odiya and teach the tribals to read and write their own
language.
Herold
introduced me whether they remember a boy visiting and staying with them 20
years back. The older generation recognised me. One lady told me that I looked
like Sharukhan in those days and now I look like her grandpa even though I am
younger than her. The natives here are well known for cracking jokes and the
conversation is always filled with laughter. The tribal’s always colour and
keeps their hair black and anyone who does not colour their hair was considered
lazy.
The villagers offered us Tapioca and other lands produce to take home. They gave a tea in a cup and saucer. I was surprised.
But
life has changed definitely for good. The house where Herold stayed belonged to
Mongla. One of the daughters of Mongla’s brother has completed Bachelor of Arts
in a nearby Catholic college, and she was fondly calling Herold as “Kokar”
which means little father (Dad’s younger brother).
The girl with a black shawl, Podmi has completed BA.
We
heard many children studying, staying in hostels and also people were buying
tractors and other farming equipment. There was a newly constructed house with
a rusted Maruti 800 car.
Rusted Maruti
The most surprising thing was that the tribal villages were well exposed to online
shopping. The Flipkart and Amazon have made inroads to these villagers. The
people order and get from a common market place where the delivery agent will
bring the goods and handover on showing the order summary on the phone by the
natives.
I
saw the water hand pump providing clean drinking water, which was the first
sign of civilization that the government provided 22 years back. Initially my
cousin used to tell that he had no other choice than to drink the brown
coloured all-purpose lake water.
Hand water pump, the first sign of civilization
I
was showing the old photos which I had taken in 1998. Herold was also showing
some old snaps. The little boys and girls were surprised to see their mom and
dad in their adolescent age in the photos.
At
around 2pm we said bye to them in Desiya “Juar” and left for home satisfied.
Herold
was saying that he was happy to play a small role as God’s instrument in
bringing education to them.
I
could appreciate the change in the villagers through education. The tribals are
actually animists and worship their ancestors. Each village will have “Gurmai”
an old sacred lady who will practice black magic or believed to do so. The “Gurmai”
dictates everything in the village. The villagers believed that any sickness
was due to a curse or black magic by their neighbours and fights with them. Now
with the education, the villagers were able to talk about germs, the importance of
cleanliness and are willing to approach hospitals for their diseases.
On
the way back we saw Chacko and his son Joel who were in Vellore for a short
time from Ashakiran hospital. Joel studied with my daughter Thelma while they
were in Vellore. Chacko works with Bondo tribes, from Ashakiran Hospital. His
wife works as a nursing superintendent in Ashakiran hospital. They were busy
levelling the land which they have bought recently. Herold was saying that as
they lived most of their life there, they feel at home there than the place
from where they came from. Most of them are settling there and have plans to
enjoy retirement life there in the place where they dedicatedly served.
We
came back home, and had rice, sambar, beans fry, and chicken gravy.
Tired
after the whole day in the hot sun and took a nap in the afternoon.
Evening
went shopping in Herold's car to buy fruits. We came back home had Naan and
chenna gravy and slept by 11 pm.
23/11/2020
MONDAY Day 4
21/11/2020
MONDAY
It
was a busy day for Herold and Jamuna Akka as they are meeting their Gadaba
literacy team for a “Back Translation” work and also some online zoom meetings.
But Herold told me that he will take me to the hospital in the morning and also to
the Duduma falls in the evening.
I got up in the morning and went for a walk
and jogging for 4 km distance. I met two people on the way. They were also
walking for fitness. I made a social smile and said “Hi” while passing by. They looked like people working for Ashakiran
Hospital. While jogging just 1 km i was gasping for breath a lot. I guess it
was because of the altitude. Lamtaput lies 900 meters above MSL.
I love these stone walls built by piling on each other. The tribals are more concerned now marking their boundaries after experiencing the outside world as a migratory labourer.
I walked till this board from Ashakiran on Jolaput reservoir road and then returned back.
I had
Idli and sambar for morning breakfast. I
was introduced to the Gadaba literacy team. The work cannot be simply
classified as a religious activity. The team does work for Christian literature
translation but they also share the skills in bring up books for primary
education. I was shown storybooks on man and animal conflict, agricultural
education books for Organic farming and so on.
Gadaba translation team. It is their part-time Job. All of them own lands and their source of income is mainly from Agriculture.
Adam and Eve story
Stories teaching important agricultural techniques and Man- Animal conflicts
Foreword by a Government Official.
Jamuna Akka with the Gadaba translation team.
I left them after saying some sentences in Gadaba and wishing all the best to them.
At
around 10 am Herold came for a break and took me to Ashakiran Hospital campus.
I was not allowed inside the casualty and wards as i did not undergo 14 days
quarantine, a protocol practised for visitors to Ashakiran.
Buzzing Ashakiran entrance
Pathway leading to casualty block
Low-cost buildings of Ashakiran
Ashakiran building was built by the low-cost model using tempered Bamboo instead of iron rods and the walls were unplastered exposing the brick and cement work. The Architect who helped was Mr Laurie Baker.
Asha Kiran Entrance
With the director Dr Mattthew in the centre. Mr Victor standing next to him was an administrator in Asha Kiran.
Covid Block to treat the affected in quarantine.
Training unit of Ashakiran
There was a Casualty ward which was shifted to the veranda in accordance with the Covid protocol and after screening for fever triad the patients were allowed to go for a consultation.
While I was taking snaps around, Herold called me to meet a person. He
was the same person whom I met in my morning walk. He was Dr Matthew, a dental surgeon by profession but working
there as a director of Ashakiran. His elder daughter studied in Vellore and was
two batches senior to my daughter. We got introduced and later went around the
campus to see the agricultural training unit.
About
Asha Kiran Society
It
was started by four young people. They
had a similar vision of serving the underprivileged, in the remotest part of India
during their medical college days in the early Eighties. Over the period the
Ashakiran organisation realised the need
for education and also farming techniques to sustain and develop the community
they serve. The hospital work hand in hand with the Odisha government health programs. The Asha Kiran through
community department facilitate education through tribal language and later
help them to bring to the mainstream Odiya or English medium in government
schools. The community workers from Asha Kiran also teach organic farming, slope cultivation and other farming techniques for farmers.
To
know in detail about the Asha Kiran society and their services for the tribal, you may visit :
https://www.ashakiransociety.org/history
After
going around the Ashakiran campus, we came back home. I made Baingan ka Bartha
and surprised Herolds with my culinary skills. We had Naan and Baingan ka
Bartha.
Herold's House building with four portions for tenants
Around 4 pm, Niranjan, one of the Gadaba literacy team staff volunteered to do a hair cut for me. Harold provided him with clippers and an electric trimmer. I wanted a crew cut and my brother told him police cut and Niranjan exactly did the style that I wanted. I thanked Niranjan saying "Dhanyawad".
I enjoyed my Hair cut
My hair cut by Niranjan
Since
other literacy team members left, my brother wanted to leave Niranjan in his
village. So Herold and I went by car to drop Niranjan in his village. The Village
was a mixed community, with predominant Gadaba tribe.
Almost all villages have this trademark unplastered stone compound wall
A street in the village.
The village children posing for my camera.
Niranjan's parents live next door but have an independent life of their own.
Niranjan's House Kitchen in the front yard.
Gadaba house from inside
Low ceiling with wooden floor and an attic above for grain storage.
One bedroom which is also a storeroom.
Scripture verses in Gadaba
We were given Coffee and some snacks. Niranjan had two daughters. The elder one studying 8th grade spoke fluently in Engish. Herold asked her what subjects she likes the most. She replied that she likes all the subjects. Well, as an academician, that was a sign of the studious child.
We
left for Herold's home around 6.30pm.
Jamuna
Akka was having back pain so we decided to give her rest from cooking. As men,
Herold and I made the night dinner. I made south Indian Madurai style “Barotta”,
a smaller and thinner version of North Indian
“Paratha”.
Madurai style Barotta
This has to be flattened by hand press before putting in hot Pan.
After dinner, a bike enthusiast Mr George who worked as an event manager in an IT company, Bangalore and who is now teaching English in Ashakiran academy came to visit me. He had KTM RC 200 and now planning to get some bike above 250cc for long rides. We got carried away discussing bike models. I was suggesting Himalayan or Dominar.
We had guava leaf tea. Later he bid good night and left, wishing us a safe ride for tomorrow to Deomali peak.
After three days of rest to my bike and for my shoulder injury, I was ready to take my bike to Deomali with Herold as my pillion rider. That little Nagging pain was still persisting when lifting arm at 90 degrees of the right shoulder.
21/11/2020
TUESDAY Day 5
I got up at 3.30am. Slept again and started to get ready from 5 am. Herold made some bread sandwich with peanut butter. He also packed water and fruits for the travel.
We were off the road by 7 am. As expected there was thick fog. I had to open my visor to see clearly on and off to ride safe. We reached Nandapur and had Poori in the roadside shop. I got an extra masala dosa as I was tempted seeing the locals ordering more of the masala dosa. I did not know at that time it will dearly cost me a day.
We reached Similiguda, which looked more of a
well-developed town with many large showrooms. “Reliance trends” was there.
Herold mentioned that Similiguda has developed better than Jeypore, Odisha.
The reason was because of the central government officers and professors
settling there after retirement. I filled petrol for Rs 500 (5.77 litres),
though my bike did not hit the reserve.
We
wanted to meet Niraj, a staff of Herold’s translation team hailing from Porja
tribe. His village was somewhere close
to Kundali from where Ghat road to Deomali would begin. We missed a diversion
and went to Kundali. We asked for directions and came back riding from Kundali
to Kuda village 2 km away from Kundali.
Niraj
was from a rich family. My assumption on the tribe, in general, got changed.
Niraj’s brother was working as an
engineer in government roadways sector. He was not an engineering graduate but
promoted to that level with experience in the field. They had a Hyundai car and
a Hero X pulse 200 bike. Niraj family
was following the Christian faith. There were a group of Porja families which meet
in Niraj House as a congregation to worship. We came to know that there were
another group of Porja families in the same village which meets as a group and
has another church. We were left wondering where is the real faith with such an
ego politics of humans for the leadership. During the conversation, Herold
asked Niraj’s brother how he lives as a Christian in the workplace. Herold
expected an answer about being loyal and truthful while being offered with bribes,
common in the government sector. But to our amusement, he said he celebrated organizing
a Christmas party bravely among the colleagues of other faiths.
After
having Tea, we bid bye and left Kuda village. The Porja village had perfect
straight streets with houses on either side. While Gadaba village will not have
streets instead the houses will be as a cluster of close relatives.
We reached Kundali market place where an arch welcomes us for Deomali Ghat road. We took some pictures around and started riding towards Deomali which is 25 km away from Kundali.
There were a lot of diversions for Tribal villages from
Deomali Road. When in Confusion always follow the road with an arch. The Ghat
road to Deomali was steep and narrow. I guess any driver on a four-wheeler will
have difficulty manoeuvring the steep turns.
We
reached the endpoint of the road. After parking the bike, we went walking to
the top view point close to the peak, There was a small pathway going further to
the peak. I was so tired to explore with my full biking attire.
The
view on top was breathtaking. There were a lot of viewpoints on the top of
Deomali. Not Much crowded but I believe it was possibly due to the Covid
Pandemic. There was so much of Garbage near viewpoints. The Municipality
should find the right way to tackle this menace.
A new road was in progress and probably in another few months, people can ride/drive
till the last viewpoint close to the peak. The road that was being laid was
cement and not tar with gravel. The new road which was laid looked slippery and
with very steep curves. It did not have a parapet wall too.
We
spent around nearly 2 hours and came back to the plains.
On
the way we went to Mr Varghese John house in Similiguda. Mr Varghese works with Ollar Gadaba tribe. Ollar Gadaba language sounds similar to Tamil and Telugu. He is doing language development and Translation. We had lunch at their house. Kerala fish curry was very delicious. Mr Varghese and Mrs Shiji have
two sons, Jeshwin, doing 2nd
year MBBS and Melvyn, preparing for his NEET exam.
Left
their home after having Tea and went to Similiguda Bazaar area. Herold replaced
his helmet visor with a new one. Took some time to find and fit the perfect
replacement.
Around
5.30pm we started riding towards Lamtaput.
We stopped to take a sunset picture on the way.
We
Stopped at Nandapur in that roadside eatery to enquire about the eyeglasses
that Herold lost on that day. He was disappointed that he lost his favourite
specs.
We
reached back the house, finally around 7 pm.
A
delicious dinner was waiting for us. I just had cauliflower soup and grilled
chicken as I was not feeling hungry.
I
went to bed thinking about Duduma falls which was the plan for the next day.
25/11/2020 WEDNESDAY Day 6
My
stomach was upset and I was awake on and
off, all through the night from 1pm. I was taking Banana and curd with a lot of
sugar to keep myself hydrated. Banana and curd is also a natural method to stop
Diarrhoea (Learned from my Dutch friends). In extreme cases, this does not
work without proper medication.
Around
6.30 am, Herold came and asked whether I could make it to Duduma falls. To
make sure that I should not miss the
planned itinerary, I said ok and got ready. Just prayed that I should be able to hold till i come back home.
We went in Herold’s Alto car. Duduma is 25km away from Lamtaput. The road was passing through many Gadaba villages.
Herold showed a spot in the Ghat road
were 5 years back, the Naxals blasted a CRPF vehicle. My cousin told me that
the Naxals have a good network with the local policemen and with the villagers.
He added that they will attack only after several warnings. The government also , in turn, bring in a huge force and do a search in the villages and encounter
Naxals. But the places like Didayi villages on the river which could be covered
over 6 hours boat journey favours the Guerrilla warfare for the Naxals.
We
saw the police station at Machkund which was blasted with grenades. The Naxals
took the police station in ambush and tied all the policemen to the trees
across the road. Then they blasted the police station building. The government
shifted the Machkund police station to Lamtaput but a CRPF watchtower was
there.
We reached Duduma Falls location. We saw a lady begging there in the car parking area. No tribes or villagers have the habit of begging and my cousin was wondering where she learnt to beg. After parking the car, we went descending few steps to see the Duduma falls viewpoint.
The rock was peeping out of the
cliff and a deep ravine beneath like the “Pride Rock” in the Movie “Lion King”.
We were very cautious as the rock was slippery and no barricade was around.
There were two boys from a nearby village who came in the bike were very excited
taking selfies standing close to the cliff. My cousin was warning them but they
were too excited to listen and heed.
The big falls on the right side from the viewpoint is the one which comes after used up for a hydroelectric power project. The
other two small ones are directly flowing from the river one on the left and the
other on just back of the viewpoint rock. I wanted to go trekking down the
falls but Herold told it requires help from the locals. Moreover, he also added
that we may end up being interrogated by Naxals. I did not venture further.
Iron rails are must at the viewpoint but
it will definitely spoil the rugged beauty.
On the way back we visited the Duduma barrage which diverts the water from main the river for Hydroelectric project.
The barrage diverts more amount of water flow
to the hydro electric project and less to the river which continues and fall as
minor two branches of Duduma waterfalls.
The
barrage also serves as a road bridge connecting Andhra state in one bank of the
river to the Odisha state in the other bank.
While
driving back a man passing by waved at my brother. He stopped the car and went
out to meet him who stood a distance stopping his bike. I was sitting in the
car but did not have much discomfort with my stomach upset. After 20 minutes,
Herold came back and as we were driving,
he told that the person he met was a teacher called Mr Dhanu Mudli, working in government school. He
was a gadaba and lived in the same village where Herold lived in early days
while learning the Gadaba language. Dhanu Mudli was also known for prominent Hindu Ideologies. My
brother told me that he shared his idea of working together to make books of Gadaba poems and stories for primary
education. Herold told that Dhanu was very happy to hear from Herold. Dhanu also knows that Herold does translation work for the Christian Organisation. I
felt at the end of the day, both were only concerned about development of the underprivileged
community. This kind of understanding is essential for Harmony in the
community.
Herold showed me the ecotourism resort on the way near Machkund which can be booked online. It is very costlier considering the local stay options near Jeypore or Similiguda town.
We
came back home around 9.30 am. I was resting the whole day. I told Herold to
get me Lopramide and Norflox T tablets, as my Diarrhoea was not responding to
the natural methods. I had rice porridge in the afternoon and took a set of
tablets.
I was
slowly packing the bags as we have to leave the next day, riding to Vijayawada.
Herold’s family was planning to travel to Madurai accompanying me till Vellore
in their car. Around 7 pm, my diarrhoea did not stop and Jamuna Akka gave me
Rice porridge, and Black tea with sugar. I took a second set of tablets. Jamuna Akka
said that we could delay a day for travelling to Vijayawada. The cyclone Nivar
was causing havoc in coastal Tamil Nadu and Andhra. I said ok to Jamuna Akka
that we can delay a day of travel. After a short prayer, I went to bed. I had a
good night sleep and my stomach was normal the next day.
26/11/2020 THURSDAY Day 7
It
was a day of relaxation. Herold and I went in car to pick up Theo, my nephew
who was coming back from Dehradun after attending his friend’s wedding. Theo
(Theodore) studies journalism and he is in his final year. Theo travelled to
vizag by flight and came to Sogur via bus.
We went to get him as the bus will take a longer route to reach
Lamtaput.
We
came home and had ‘Semia Upma’. I was hogging it with coconut chutney as if
starved to death. Afetrnoon we had
Puliodarai or tamarind rice with potato fry and egg.
Herold
got my bike washed from a nearby water service station. In the evening i helped
Herold to pack his car with their luggage.
We
had chappathi, chicken and scrambled egg for dinner and slept early.
27/11/2020 FRIDAY Day 8
We got up at 4 am and within 15 minutes we were on road to Jalaput reservoir. The road route was suggested by Theo. The plan was to reach Vijayawada from Lamtaput via Jolaput reservoir, Paderu and joining the national highway at Tallepalem.
There was an on and off drizzle till we reached Tallepalem. The huge Jolaput reservoir was mesmerizing in the moonlight. We road across the dam with one side full of water and the other side water gushing out to the valley below. I could not take photos as there was constant drizzle which forced me to pack my bags rainproof and my mobile inside my Riding jacket.
The route turned
out to be time-consuming as it was going through narrow roads in the villages. We stopped somewhere near Arakku and had
bread sandwiches and Beef curry.
We could not ride together as I was at traffic went head zipping past the narrow spaces and at times they were making up a good speed in the highway.
Near Rajahmundry,
in front of GSL medical college, an auto cornered me to the divider wall in the
four-lane by suddenly changing lanes from left to right. I braked and stopped
but my right footrest rubber was rubbed to the wall and the metal bar inside
was exposed.
From Rajahmundry to Vijayawada, there was heavy rain. My gloves were completely wet and I started losing grip with the gloves and the hand was paining. I stopped and removed the gloves and rode the rest of the distance bare hand. We had plans to meet and stop for the lunch but with the heavy rain, I did not feel like stopping anywhere. The Google maps did not work properly when switched on in my mobile close to Vijayawada. So I ended asking the route for William Carey guest house in my broken Telugu and reached the place by 6pm. I was totally drenched and exhausted. Herold reached the guest house, a little later. After refreshing in the room, we went to have dinner. Theo and Ashika bought from Mc Donald’s and they were staying in the room. We three went out and had a nice Hyderabad biriyani, Naan and butter chicken at Food Castle, Vijayawada.
I met Vamsi and Jebaraj at the guest house.
Spoke for a short time about the trip and went to bed early around 9pm.
28/11/2020 SATURDAY Day 9
Herold
came and woke me at 4 am. I had a severe headache. I was slowly getting ready
but Herold left around 5 am in the car. After putting on my rain-soaked boots,
I was not feeling ready for the ride. I was struggling with my luggage. Vamsi,
the inn keeper’s brother was awake and he helped to bring the bike from the parking lot and loaded
the luggage. At 5.30 am I left saying bye to him. I started riding without GPS
as the road was clear with signboards. It was raining near Ongole. So I
stopped to have tea. After seeing the truck drivers eating egg Dosa, I also
order one and ate. I also had minute pulp orange juice to keep myself hydrated.
The heavy headache was probably due to dehydration on the previous day ride in the rain skipping water and food. So I was cautious to drink water and juice and to have proper stops
during the last day ride. I wanted to reach home event free. I
called and told Herold that I am moving ahead and not to wait for me for
lunch. They were actually behind me as the nuts came off from luggage carrier
on top and they spent time in a repair shop.
I
stopped again and had tea and water near Nellore.
I reached home with a warm salute from the main gate security Mr Kuppusamy and a
vociferous welcome by my children running
out from my quarters on hearing the bullet sound.
Praise God. Very Nice Memories with you Anna.
ReplyDeleteThank you
DeleteProud of you my friend. May God bless you and guide you and use you more for His glory.
ReplyDeleteThank you. Yes. Praise be to Christ
DeleteSir such beautiful ride and nice capture of culture of odisha village people lifestyle. Happy journey and safe sir 👍👌
ReplyDeleteThank you
DeleteThis was an enjoyable read!😊
ReplyDeleteThank you
DeleteLovely ride.. ..well documented....enjoyed �� it...I know Dr Mathew Chacko and Mr Victor of Asha Kiran well...missed this ride...and also meeting Herold anna who was part of the EU group I attended in Madudai in the late 90's (I was doing BSc Zoology then and Herold anna was doing his MA Linguistics)....hadn't I had COVID, I would have joined you....will try to join your next ride God willing.... RIDE ON BRO....
ReplyDeleteThank you Jacob. Looking forward to have you aboard on my next ride.
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