Ride to Goa and a visit to CSI Basel Mission Hospital,Gadag, Karnataka

My daughter's ISC exams and the cloud of tensions that had prevailed at home had limited my plans for a long bike rides. Six months had passed, since my last long distance bike ride. But the end of the board exams and a 50-days time gap before the upcoming entrance exam gave me an opportunity to plan a ride to Goa and a visit to CSI Basel Mission Hospital, Gadag, Karnataka.

Dr Ajay Raju, General surgeon and Medical superintendent of Basel mission hospital was cordial in replying to my email and welcomed me to make a visit to his hospital and the attached orphanage within the hospital campus.

Preparations:

Got the bike checked by my mechanic, Mr Suresh.
Got carbon emission pollution certificate added to my bike documents.
Carried an oil can to lubricate the chains after every 500 km
Carried an electronic air pump and basic tools.
Bought peanut bars and bottles of mineral water.
Prayed a lot for a safe solo ride, completely relying on the Lord's mercy, who is the only savior in emergencies.

I got a new Axor Helmet with a pin-lock fitted visor, to help in early morning rides amidst fog or rain and a little up-grade to my safety gears.

Axor Helmet

Tentative itinerary:

24/05/2022 Tuesday -

Vellore to Gadag
On the way, visit ETCM COLLEGE at KGF where children from our institution are pursuing Nursing Training and also Tungabhadra dam in Hosapete.
Stay the night at CSI Basel Mission Hospital, Gadag, Karnataka.

25/05/2022 Wednesday -

Visit the hospital and orphanage.
Learn about their services and mission needs.
Around noon, leave for Calangute, Goa
On the way visit old Goa churches and make a ferry crossing with my bike to Divar Island.
Stay at GoSTOPSGoa, Calangute, Goa
Have dinner at Noronha's corner,

26/05/2022 Thursday -

Ride bike to Kulem and take a jeep ride to visit the Dudhsagar Waterfall
Return to Velha Goa around 2 pm and visit Aguada Fort, Bear claw view point and if possible, other historical places.
Have dinner at Alif restaurant, Calangute Market area.

27/05/2022 Friday -

Take the long ride back home via Hubli, Tumkur, KGF, Chittoor to Kasam, and Vellore, 15-hours, excluding fuel and food breaks.

I hoped and believed God would give me the needed strength and

protection to reach home as planned.

The Ride begins.........

24/05/2022 Tuesday -

I got up, when the alarm rang at 2 am. I started to ride from home at 3.19 am.

Starting from home

Starting from home .

Starting Odometer reading 59,669 km

I was somewhat scared, remembering my fall at Guntur, Andhra Pradesh, while riding to Odisha. I was singing the hymn ''Oh the deep deep love of Jesus" to call for God's presence on this solo ride. I could not ride beyond 60 km per hour as there were often potholes and diversions on the highway towards Chittoor from Kasam, Vellore.

After Chithtoor, I was able to go faster, maintaining a speed above 80km and reached Kolar. The google maps took me right to the ETCM nursing college farm house where the boy's hostel was located. Four of our MBKG Pannai boys are studying there. They were happy to see me in the early morning around 5.45 am. I gave them some gifts and took them to Tea shop nearby and had tea with them. After several minutes of chatting with them, I bid them goodbye and left for Gadag, Karnataka around 6.25 am.

With Yesuraj, Vignesh, Raghavendra and Jagan, studying Dip. Nursing at ETCM College, Kolar, Karnataka

With the boys at the tea shop

The google now directed me to take a road to Vijayapura, Doddaballapura, Dobbaspet and connected me to the Tumakuru National Highway. The road as far as Tumakuru was under construction and I was at times motor cycling off the road near the state highway. Once I ended up on a non existent road under the bridge and followed a pathway down , riding my bike to go on the other side of the service road near Doddaballapura.

Mix up of highways and by-ways in Doddaballapura.

Somewhere near Dobbaspet

The road from Tumkur was a super highway, and I was breezing through between 90 - 95 km per hour.

After crossing Sira, I stopped to have a tender coconut. I had two and gave the man Rs 100/-. He spoke to me in Hindi saying that he did not have change and gave me another tender coconut. I believe our brain has vocabulary that we do not realize of unlearned languages which we would have learnt unconsciously from seeing movies, hearing songs, or conversations in the past. Knowing only Tamil and English, still I was able to understand the coconut vendor's reply. Brilliant human brain!!!

Tender coconut

On the super highway, Tumkur.

Pleasant climate, cloudy with no rain !

I went past Hiriyur and Chitradurga. But after Chitradurga, instead of going to Hosapeta, I made a bad mistake and made a wrong choice when and got diverted to Arabhavi- Chalageri road. The road went through villages. Every village had two speed breakers right next to the name sign of the village, one at the entrance and the other at the exit. They were not simple one but humongous ones which will give you a clear reminder if you are not careful. So, I paid due respect for each speed breaker which dearly cost me time and energy. I became very tired and I could only hope, to be continue on to Hosapete and visit Tungabhadra Dam on the way.

Tiresome ride from 1 pm to 3 pm at low speed, on rural roads.

There was no uniformity in crop cultivation. Each farmer was trying a different crop.

Rain-dependent cultivation lands. Hardly any bodies of water spotted.

Dry parched lands

Tungabhadra River, a few kilometers before Mundargi.

Finally, I reached Mundargi, and reached the Basel Mission Hospital campus at 3.29 pm. I definitely would have been earlier by 1 hour if I had followed Hosapete road. I was in my full riding gear and walked in the OPD block to look for Dr Ajay Raju. I was told that he was in the operation theatre and Mr Sudhakar, an operation theatre assistant, called an attendant to accompany me to my room in Sadha Bhavan, hospital guest house. It was next to the Wurth Memorial Church. The church was one of the oldest buildings on the campus built in the late 1800's.

I got to the room and, while taking off my riding pants, I got cramps in my abdominal muscles on right side and for a second I thought it was a hernia. I fell on the bed and was lying there, praying and hoping for relief. However, I was alright after 5 minutes. I thought it might be because of constant contraction all through the day of riding and an extreme contraction while removing my riding pants stimulated the cramp. Moreover I was not well hydrated. I had not been drinking enough water - which was a possible cause for the cramps.

Sam, the P.R.O, Mr Sudhakar's son came on his motorbike and took me back to the hospital. He took me to the Hospital canteen and got me an egg roll and a coffee. I was not allowed to pay for it. Dr Ajay Raju had instructed the canteen staff not to charge Hospital guest. I was humbled by their hospitality. Later, I was seated in Dr Ajay Raju's Office and was waiting for him. I was expecting a man in his early 50's. He walked in calmly, and we exchanged greetings. While chatting, I came to know that he was an alumnus of the Christian Medical College, Vellore. He belonged to the batch of 1995. I know almost 15 of his batch mates, either as a member of my church, as friends of my children or as my own friends.

The first sight of the hospital

The name sign of the Hospital

Hospital entrance now, 2022.

Hospital Entrance in the year 1933 (Picture Courtesy Basel Mission Archives).

Hospital canteen

Lingayatism and Christianity

Compared to the other three south Indian states, I think there are very few christian mission organisations in Karnataka. I heard about the Lingayat movement which was formed against the caste system and preached equality to all. The Lingayat movement influenced great social reforms in Karnataka unlike other south Indian states, where, the right to education for all was brought by the Christian missionaries. The Lingayat movement believes in monotheism (One God) and is against caste discrimination, as taught by their founder Basava. I was wondering, in Gadag - where a huge 147 meters concrete statue for the great scholar Basava stands tall in the city center, whether there was a possibility of Christian Basel mission field. I asked Dr Ajay Raju about this and he told me that there was a prophecy to Lingayats that a foreign God would be introduced to them by light-skinned people and the Lingayat scholars of that time, called for Europeans who were preaching in Hubli and Dharwad to preach here in Gadag.

As I pondered about it, I found on the internet about Channappa Uttangi who was a third-generation Lingayat Christian. He was often invited to preach at festivals conducted by Hindu Lingayats. Channappa Uttangi joined the Basel mission in 1908 and served for 33 years.

For further reading please refer to this link:

https://www.lingayatreligion.com/Downloads/Lingayat-Chennappa-Uttangi.pdf

Statue of the 12th century scholar Basava, the Founder of Lingayatism. (Pic. from Google)

CSI Basel Mission Hospital.

The Basel mission hospital was started in 1902 by the Basel mission from Switzerland. The early doctors who served in the hospital in Gadag were Germans and hence the natives often identify it as a German hospital.

At present, the Basel mission hospital is 150-bed, NABH-accredited hospital. Dr Ajay Raju, joined the Basel mission hospital in 2006 at the age of 28 years and continues to serve tirelessly, and ably supported by his wife, Dr Savita Ajay, a general physician.

Dr Ajay Raju, took me around the hospital wards, and departments and showed me all the facilities that are available. The hospital's services were well appreciated during the time of Covid and it was the one hospital which did meet the demand for oxygen supplied through their established liquid oxygen plant.

In many aspects, the Basel Mission hospital remains a pioneer in introducing innovations in advanced treatment techniques and facilities to the people of Gadag. The services are rendered at very nominal costs keeping in mind the slogan ( "What you say in mission explains what you do, and what you do shows that you men what you say) of Basel mission.

Hospital OPD block

Entrance to OPD building

Year built was engraved on the OPD Block

Operation theatre

Paediatric ward.

Scan block

MRI scan

Male ward

Female ward

Cath lab

Dialysis room

Way to dialysis room

Neonatal ICU

Physiotherapy department

Facilities available at PT department

Hospital chapel

Facilities Available at CSI Basel Mission Hospital

24×7 Emergency/Trauma unit

Full-time consultants in General Medicine, General Surgery, Paediatrics ,OBG & Orthopaedics

Visiting consultants in Super Speciality of Paediatric Surgery,Urology, Neurology, Cardiology, Gastroenterology, Nephrology

In house services Of Lab, Pharmacy, Radiology

High-tech Operation Theatres and CathLab

Facility Of ICU, Paediatric ICU, Neonatal ICU

Dialysis, Endoscopy, Colonoscopy, ERCP Facility

24x7 Ambulance

Almost all medical insurance is accepted here in Basel Mission Hospital.
A nursing assistant course for girls is offered here, and the hospital is on the verge of getting recognition to start a BSc Nursing course with all prerequisites.

Needs of the Hospital

There is a dire need for full time physicians. Dr Ajay Raju and Dr Savita Ajay have dedicated themselves to work round the clock. Most of the super specialty departments are managed through consultants who work part-time. The Basel Mission Hospital needs :

Orthopedic surgeon
Anesthetist
Paediatrician
Resident duty doctors

I hope that someone appropriate, gets connected by reading this information.

Dr Ajay Raju told me that he would take me for dinner after 7.30 pm and left me with his Public relation officer (P.R.O), Samuel, to go to the operation theatre where a patient was posted for a cholecystectomy.

I went to my room, and around 7.50 pm, Dr Ajay came and took me to ClarksInn Hotel,Gadag. We had a sumptuous dinner with soups, Manchurian starters, main course with naan and a Gadag special Saoji chicken curry. We were discussing the challenges in serving on the mission field, the recent change in government norms, the funding crisis, competing with corporate giants, and so on. I enjoyed the chat with a fellow professional, who was very friendly within such a short time of meeting. He too, was an avid trekker and biker with "Leh return" tag. He dropped me back to my room in Sabha Bhavan guest house around 10 pm.

Clarks Inn Restaurant

With Dr Ajay Raju after dinner at Clarks Inn, Gadag - Betagiri

End odometer reading 60,297 km

Total distance covered on day 1 = 628 km

He said that he would take me around the orphanages in the hospital the next day and bade me good night.

I went to bed early, keeping the lights on which I could not resist even after becoming an adult, when sleeping alone in a new place.

25/05/2022 Wednesday -

In the morning I woke up to my regular alarm at 4.35 am, but got out of the bed around 5.30 am and freshened up. I called Sam, to show me a simple tea shop and we walked down the street. We had tea for just Rs 5/- per cup. The locals were clad in white pyjamas with white Nehru caps. I was told by Sam that it is the common style of dress for farmers.

Sabha Bhavan, Hospital Guest house.

Tea shop, Gadag

We returned and I told Sam to pick me up around 8.30 am. I told Sam that I would take him for breakfast to a nearby vegetarian hotel. Exactly at 8.30 am he came and took me to Hotel Kamat. We ordered paper roast dosa, Idli and coffee. The food was delicious.

Morning breakfast at Kamat Hotel

With P.R.O. Sam

By that time I got a call from Dr Ajay Raju, that he would meet me near the hospital canteen to take me around the three orphanages run by the Basel Mission Hospital. I was a little late in joining him at 9.20 am.

First we visited an orphanage for HIV negative boys and girls. The orphanage was originally started for children with Polio and after eradication of polio, the orphanage started accommodating children who tested HIV negative, born to HIV positive parents. The girls and boys here were discharged from the orphanage only after they became an earning member of society with a job.

Orphanage for HIV-negative children born to HIV-positive parents

Girl's dormitory

Boy's dormitory

Activity area within the orphanage

Dining hall

Photo gallery of the alumni of the orphanage home

Dr Ajay and I, with the children of the orphanage

"The Beginning " Three orphan girls taking care of three polio children in 1927 (Picture courtesy of Basel Mission Archives)

Boys of the orphanage going to school in 1933 (Picture courtesy of Basel Mission Archives)

German doctors and nurses with the polio children at the orphanage in 1933 (Picture courtesy of Basel Mission Archives)

Then we visited a boy's hostel within the Hospital campus funded partly by the Karnataka government . And then we visited Snehalaya boy's hostel which is in need of funding to run it as the foreign funds have ceased.The warden was showing some piggy banks which were to be distributed to willing sponsors in order to raise local funds. I shared our experience of creating a website and sending news letters to raise funds from local philanthropists.

Snehalaya boy's home ( now experiencing a funding crisis)

Snehalaya boy's dormitory

We went to the nursing hostel and the block where nursing classes were conducted. Seeing all the mannequins, classrooms, activity labs and other infrastructure, I told Dr Ajay that the BSc nursing college permission will just be a matter of time.

Nursing Hostel, Basel Mission Hospital.

Nursing College Block

The same Nursing Block in 1933 (Picture courtesy of Basel Mission Archives)

Dr Ajay accompanied me to my guest house, bade me goodbye and wished me a safe ride.

I got ready for the ride and loaded the luggage on the bike. I took the bike to the hospital entrance and called Sam to meet me there. I did not want to look like an alien inside the busy hospital campus in the morning hours in front of the weary patients. Sam got me change for Rs 1000/- in Rs 50/- denominations. That would be very helpful for local transactions. I forgot to hand over the room key at that time (I sent it by courier, after reaching home).

Bidding goodbye to Sam.

Drifting back to the Ride!!!

I hit the highway around 11.20 am. The road was smooth and I was cruising at 90 km/hr. I felt the need to upgrade the bike which would help me to ride at 120 km/hr. God willing, I wish in near future to get a RE Himalayan 450. Tempted by the Yezdi adventure motorbike at the moment, but I would rather wait for RE Himalayan 450.

I got confused at a butterfly flyover terminal to Hubli but got it right after turning back from the wrong direction within a few 100 meters. The national highway was good till Hubli and later enroute to Dharwad, it became somewhat narrow with on coming traffic. When I turned on to the NH 748 leading to Goa, the road was bad for the first few kilometers. Then the road was good in the Ghat section but I could only maintain 60-70 km/hr. There were about 3 railway crossing on the way to Goa. The road was very bad for 100 meters before and after the railway crossings. I thought may be there was confusion between the railway and the roadway about "whose responsibility" it was to maintain the road.

Parched landscape on the highway from Gadag to Hubli

Diversion to Goa, 4 km before Dharwad.

NH 748 to Goa

Bad roads at railway crossings

Total of 3 Railway crossings like this to reach Goa from Dharwad

Ghat section before Mollem, Goa

Sahyadri mountains or Western Ghats

The landscape changed from very arid to more like coastal Kerala as I was getting close to Mollem, Goa. The petrol was 7 rupees cheaper than in the other states I crossed. I was looking for some old Portuguese buildings or the remains of the war bunkers of the Indo-Goan war of 1961. To my amazement, I found none. Later my initial impression that, the Portuguese only maintained Goa for sea trade and they did not have any concern for Goans was confirmed.. Unlike the British, where they left behind their legacy of schools, colleges,hospitals, railways and government administrative buildings, I did not find anything other than those magnificent churches. However, I might be wrong in my perception, with my short exposure to Goa.

I was able to reach goSTOPSGoa, Calangute around 4.45 pm. I checked into an 8 bed air-conditioned dormitory.

goSTOPSGoa, reception.

Parking area

Dormitories and rooms

I met Parthasarathy from Hyderabad and Priyanka from Thrissur, Kerala. Both were IT professionals. They were on 'workation' (working, while holidaying in Goa). They were pretty excited to know that I rode all the way from Vellore Tamil Nadu.

After freshening up and changing into casuals, I rode to Calangute beach that was two streets away. After parking the bike on the side of the beach road, I entered the beach through a fishing hamlet. I took some photos of people paragliding with a speed boat and the sunset on the beach. After a few minutes there, I did not know what to do , being alone on the beach. I could not go in to the waves as I had a DSLR camera in my hand. I felt bored.

Entered Calangute Beach through a fishing hamlet

Calangute Beach

Then I rode to Noronha's corner, a food truck parked near Assagao. I took the Baha beach road from Calangute. The google maps were very helpful all through out my journey. I hardly asked anyone for directions. I reached the place but found only a fruit vendor. When I asked her in English, what time the food truck would come? She replied to me in Hindi " Sade saath baje". OK, I understood that 7'o' clock. I was waiting from 6.50 pm. After 7 pm,I was restless and called to the telephone number mentioned in Google. The driver of a Maruti omni stopped with the phone in his hand and said the truck was coming behind.He was the person whom I saw in side Noronha's truck in the google images. He was looking like Dwayne Johnson, starring as the demi god, Maui, in a famous animated movie, Maona. The truck came at 7.30 pm exactly . Now I know what 'Sade' means in Hindi. I ordered a typical Goan dish, pork vindaloo which was served with two pieces of bread for Rs 310/- and a whisky-flavored home made chocolate for Rs 50/-

Noronha's Corner

Old Goan House opposite to Noronha's Corner

The food truck was ready to start business

Noronha's Corner

My bike parked near the truck.

On the way back to Calangute from Baha Beach road, I stopped at a roadside park to take a picture of Ronaldo's statue and also with ''I LOVE GOA'' with back-lit letters.

Ronaldo's statue at Baha Beach road

With " I love Goa '' sign in the distance.

A close up photo

Ending odometer reading 60,584 km. Total distance covered on day 2 = 287 km

I came back to the goSTOPSGoa backpackers hostel. Partha and Priyanka told that there was another biker who had arrived riding from Chennai.

Two bikes with Tamil Nadu registration in the parking lot.

I was then introduced to Chitra, the biker. She rode her KTM 200 all the way through Bengaluru, Gokarna and to Goa in 4 days. She told me that she worked as a manager and was taking a break before starting a new job. It was fun talking with her in Tamil just to attract the attention of the rest of the gang.

Chitra, the biker from Chennai ( Picture courtesy of Instagram)

Priyanka and Partha were trying to say a few words in Tamil in a funny way. There were giggles, smiles, and laughter while making fun of each others language. The chatting was going on and on in a potpourri of languages. Most of the guys were working online in the day time and partying at night, staying there for a few weeks to a month. As I was planning to start early in the morning to ride to Kulem, Goa for a visit to Dudhsagar waterfall, I excused myself and retired to bed around 10 pm.

26/05/2022 Thursday -

I got ready around 5.45 am, after waking up to my regular alarm, and left for Kulem,Goa.

Starting odometer reading 60,591 km on day 3.

Theatre room and activity area at goSTOPGoa, Calangute.

Front lounge with long table inside for plugging and surfing activities

Entrance to goSTOPSGoa, Calangute

While getting the bike I saw Partha still roaming around. He said he had been awake the whole night. I filled up with petrol on the NH 748 when the bike hit the reserve. Ten litres for a sum within 3 digits! I felt like time was travelling backwards.

Often trespassed on the Atal-Sethu bridge, which was prohibited for two wheelers

Morning view of the Mandovi River from the Atal Sethu bridge.

I reached Kulem around 7.40 am and parked the bike in a nearby paid parking lot for Rs 50. He told me to leave the helmet on the bike and said "Idhar chor nahi hi". Ok, I got it - "No thief here''. I just prayed and took him at his word and left my brand new Rs 5000/- Axor helmet there on the bike. He told me to have breakfast in the nearby restaurant called ''FAMILY restaurant". As the name suggested, it was strictly meant for families. The owner has a sign displayed 'No smoking area' and his number beneath to complain immediately even if he was unavailable in person. I ordered dosa and tea. The bill came to Rs 90/- I saw a box for tips for the waiters and I put Rs 10/- in the box. A Tamil speaking family was dining with me. But I did not feel like introducing myself to them speaking in Tamil. To me, they seemed to be kind of serious personalities.

Family restaurant at Kulem.

Family restaurant at Kulem

Strict warning sign board at the Family restaurant at Kulem

The restaurant was located on the Jeep trail that led to the waterfall.

I reached the Dudhsagar Tour Operator Association office and there were around 10 people inquiring at the counter.

Way to Dudhsagar jeep booking counter from restaurant.

DTOA, Kulem Goa.

Rules and regulations for the jeep ride to Dudhsagar Waterfall.

Dudhsagar Waterfall

There were 4 ways to visit Dudhsagar:

By train which stops at Dudhsagar station.
By trek from Kulem railway station (11 km to Dudhsagar)
By trek from Castle Rock railway station (14 km to Dudhsagar)
By jeep to the base of Dudhsagar Falls (20 km on the river bed and marshy land. It takes 45 minutes to reach the base. No jeep ride option, during Monsoon from June to September.)

I chose the jeep mode due to lack of time. Also the easiest, safest and quickest of the options.

It is advisable to book in advance online for a fee of Rs 10/- The rest of the cost we have to pay in cash. Once the Jeep driver was allocated from DTOA booking office, I paid Rs 500/- to the jeep driver. The driver took us to an adjacent counter where I rented a life jacket for Rs 40/-. A life jacket is compulsory for a jeep ride.

Life jacket issuing counter

Then the driver asked us to pay Rs 100/- each for forest entry at the forest check post. A fee of Rs 50/- was also collected for my camera there and also the plastic bottles of water and juice were counted and recorded. If we do not show the exact number of bottles on the return journey, we will be fined Rs 200/- per bottle.

It is advisable to go early and book for the 8 am to 9am slot. The total number of jeeps allowed per day is 60 according to the website. Our jeep driver said it is 260 per day. Each jeep accommodates a maximum of 7 persons. When I was standing at the counter, a Gujarati man with a family of four took the lead asking me to join them and a newly married Goan couple standing behind opted to join us. Thus we made it to 7 people for booking the jeep. I suggest you to check and speak around, while standing at the DTOA counter, to get to the magic number 7. Also carry enough paper currency. Of course, there were ATMs 200 meters away.

The best seat for this bumpy jeep ride is the front seat next to the driver. All are Mahindra Bolero jeeps. Being the single one among the passengers, by default, I was bestowed the opportunity to occupy the front seat.

From the front seat with rest of the passengers.

Forest check post, where forest entry fees and camera charges were collected.

The ride was enjoyable, with muddy trails crossing the river and descending down to the base of the water fall. The water fall was four-tiered. The initial jeep route went parallel to the railway track. The railway bridge goes across the Dudhsagar at the third tier of the falls. That suggested that we had to descend one more tier to reach the base of the water fall. The total height of the falls is 320 meters or 1017 feet.

Jeep trail to Dudhsagar

Animals could be spotted on the early morning or late evening.

Video of Dudhsagar jeep ride

After a 45 minutes jeep ride, we reached an area where Jeeps were parked and we had to walk 500 meters down the rocky path to reach the base of the waterfalls.

Entry to the jeep parking area.

Jeep parking area

There were a few changing rooms and rest rooms. This would never be enough for the crowd that pours in later in the day. According to the website , the last jeep ride is 12 noon, but the jeep driver said that the jeep booking are taken till 4 pm. Again, despite the website claim of 60 Jeep entry per day, I heard from the driver that it would be around 240 Jeeps per day. The driver told us that only one trip was allotted for each driver but I felt that it could be two in a day.

Changing rooms and rest rooms were very few.

Small foot bridge to cross the stream from the water fall.

Stream below the waterfall

Path to the waterfall. A distance of 500 meters from the jeep parking lot

I walked down the rocky path leading to the base of the waterfall. The first sight of that magnificent falls from below was well worth the travel.

First view of the falls and hearing of the sound of the gushing water

Magnificent view of the 1,017-foot falls from my DSLR.

A picture shot by a fellow trekker.

With my funny Glares.

Of course, a selfie too !

Shot on my mobile Phone

Hardly any parking left at 11 am and jeeps were parked about 1 km from the parking lot.

Footpath to the falls

Distant view of the waterfalls from the tower at the jeep parking lot.

The falls was very beautiful with the old curving railway bridge adorning it like a necklace. There was a huge natural pool at the base of the waterfall and everyone who had life jacket was able to enjoy a swim or float in the natural pool. After a while, I got tired of watching others swimming and bathing in the pool and started moving towards the jeep. I was at the waterfall base for 30 minutes. But 1 hour and 30 minutes was allotted after reaching the waterfall to enjoy the time at the falls.

I was taking photos with my DSLR but in the back of my mind, was afraid that someone might approach me to ask the price for a photo thinking I was a professional photographer at a tourist destination. I saw another person struggling to get a full view of the waterfall with his 70-300 mm lens. I asked him to take a photo of me with the Dudhsagar Falls in the background. He did and in turn I took a few photos for him on his mobile phone. I left the falls and after 11 am, the two families returned to the jeep. The jeep returned us to the same DTOA counter at 12 noon sharp. A time, well spent.

I got my bike and was happy to see my helmet, right there on the bike. In Kulem, I had a 1 litre mineral water Rs 20/- and a Cavins (Produced in Tamil Nadu) cold coffee in a tetra pack Rs 30/-

Old (Velha) Goa.

I was riding back and reached Velha Goa around 2 pm. I parked the bike near a circle at the old churches of Goa.

Velha Goa Churches

I entered the Basilica of Born Jesus. There was no entry charges. The church staff, were strictly prohibiting photographs inside the church. Non-plastered red porous rock walls added beauty to the church's exterior. The church was built in 1605 and stands unchanged with the ravages of time. The interior was beautiful with cherubim adorning the decorated walls. A silver coffin was on top of the wall on the right, where the remains of St Xavier could be seen from below. I was told the remains will be kept out of the coffin for public viewing once every 10 years. They will next be displayed in 2024. Old relics and ancient items were on display in a hall adjacent to the church. There was a souvenir shop in that hall and a sound and light show about the history of the church was offered. I tried to get a shot on my DSLR inside the church quickly like a paparazzi but got a stern warning "No Photos!" from a staff member. Even the photo that I had managed to click before the warning, came out as a blurry image.

Basilica of born Jesus, Velha Goa

Priest's quarters, Basilica of born Jesus, Velha Goa

Museum, Basilica of born Jesus, Velha Goa

View of Velha Goa churches

Basilica of born Jesus, Velha Goa

Se Cathedral, Velha Goa

Then I walked to the parking lot and got on my bike and rode to the Divar Island ferry terminal of old Goa which was just behind the church.

Viceroy Arch, Old Goa

The ferry services were operated by the Goa state government. The charges were Rs 10/- for cars and none for two wheeler. I enjoyed riding onto the ferry with my bike. The ferry staff was excited to see my Tamil Nadu registration plate and asked if I really rode all the way from Tamil Nadu. He was kind enough to take some photos of me with another ferry passing ours in the middle of the river. The two-wheeler passengers had parked their bikes and were sitting relaxing in the ferry. Unlike the ferry ride I had in Fort Kochi, this was smooth. The main difference was the lack of waves. The Fort Kochi ferry ride was on the sea and this was on a calm Mandovi river.

Video of ferry ride

Divar Island ferry terminal, Velha Goa

On the ferry

On the ferry with another ferry crossing in the background.

The Divar Island was a peaceful Island with a few resorts and a small Goan village in which there was a government school surrounded by Goan styled beautiful houses in with red-tiled roofs.

The landscape was mainly mangroves stretching for a kilometer into the interior. The central part of the Island was a somewhat elevated on a rocky region. The people and their houses were in this area. I saw boys with nice fishing rods engaged in fishing near the mangroves. I saw on the internet that there were boat rides offered for a day trip to sight salt-water crocodiles and birds around the Mandovi river.

Divar Island, Goa

Mangroves, Divar Island, Goa

Divar Island, Goa

School at Divar Island, Goa

Spices driying in the sun, Divar Island, Goa

The Goans love for foot ball was obvious. A foot ball ground at Divar Island, Goa

I left the Island from a different ferry terminal and arrived closer to the Atal Sethu Bridge. From there I rode to upper Aquada Fort in Candolim.

On my way to Aquada Fort in Candolim from Divar Island

Atal Sethu bridge. The top road of the bridge was prohibited for two wheeler.

Floating casinos

A distant view of night life on a bright mid-day.

Another view of casinos

View of a floating casino from a fishing hamlet

A fishing hamlet

I parked the bike near Aquada Fort and the cost was Rs 50/- but the fort entry cost was Rs 25/- Strange !

Aquada Fort as the name suggests, was meant for clean water storage and distribution in the Portuguese Era. It had a prison complex and an old light house. It was tiring in the hot noon sun to visit the fort.

Aquada Fort entry

Stone tablet on Aquada Fort

Aquada Fort inside entry

Stairs leading to Light house complex

Inside Aquado Fort

Light house and the underground prison in the center.

Four storied light house

I asked for the route to Devil's Finger and found that there was a motor-able pathway behind upper Aquada Fort which could take me to the end of the cliff. From there it was only a 500 meter walk down the path to reach the rocky beach shores containing the Bear Claw spot, Devil's Finger and the Kaurati caves. The radio station on the northwest end of Upper Aquada Fort was the starting point of the off-road trail leading to the cliff. I parked the bike and took my helmet in a bag, I started walking slowly and carefully, descending the path down, towards the rocky beach.

Off- roading from upper Aquada Fort northwest end to Kaurati caves.

View from the cliff

Scenic view from the cliff.

Bike parked near the cliff

A selfie at the cliff

Distant view of Kaurati caves down the rocky sea shore

A walk through the rocky path to the shore.

Long rocks on the sea like docked ships.

Pebbles in different sizes

Distant view of Bear claw from this rock.

Kaurati caves

The riding boots that I had gave a good grip while descending down to the beach. I went to a rock extending like a docked ship into the ocean. The rock was completely sculpted by splashing of the sea waves. Upon going to the tip of the rock, I realized that a similar rock a few 100 meters away was the one like a bear claw. I took my camera and took a few snaps. I was exhausted and did not want to walk to get closer. I had only enough energy left to climb back to my bike on top of the cliff.

Had an eerie feeling while standing in this rock which was similar to the one with Bear claw.

A selfie for a proof, "I was there!"

Kaurati cave

Wave sculpted Rock formations

Lower Aquada Fort

Kaurati cave ?

Wave sculpted Rock formations

Wave sculpted Rock designs

Wave sculpted Rock formations

Lower Aquada Fort

Bear claw rock

Wave sculpted Rock formations

Was this the one Called Devil's finger

Distant view of Bear claw

Wave sculpted Rock formations

Kaurati cave?

I really felt the need of the local guide as the photos in google was showing a cleft in a huge rock as Devil's finger, Bear claw and Kaurati caves.

When I came back to the cliff, I saw my bike had been moved and parked . I noticed a family in camping chairs occupying the viewing spot, with their 4x4 jeep parked beside them.

I was hungry and rode straight to Calangute market. I found Alif restaurant and had beef biriyani. I asked for hot water to drink but they said they could only serve bottled drinking water.

Alif Restaurant, Calangute market area.

The beef biriyani was Rs 110/- and a 1-liter bottle of water cost Rs 30/- A small boy at the cash counter was very confused and gave me change charging Rs 300/- Then I explained and got the correct balance.

I went back to my Backpackers hostel and took a shower. I arranged all my luggage, so that I could start early in the morning for the long ride back home to Vellore.

I was more relaxed once I had packed everything for the next day's ride.

Divya Tyagi, who was staying in the same 8-bed dormitory, met me and spoke for the first time. Though staying in the same place, each one had different work or sightseeing schedules. She was very friendly and told me that she studied in Vellore Institute of Technology (VIT), Vellore. She was from Meerut and was working for an IT company. She was an avid traveler and got connected through our Insta accounts instantaneously. I was sharing about my Dudhsagar jeep trip which she had on her bucket list. She invited me to the group party that night but as I was leaving the next day, I politely declined. It was wonderful talking to her and was easy to relate with her on the topics of travelling to lesser-known tourist destinations..

All the people staying in that hostel were young, most of them working for IT companies. But they were quite interested about the reason behind my bike ride. They appreciated of my job in an orphanage, about my bike rides, and my blog.

Kishore, from Hyderabad whom I met in the hostel and who was staying in another 16-bed dormitory was quite an interesting character. Like many of the others, he was also an IT professional working for a software company based in Hyderabad. He was a member of the RH chapter in Hyderabad, an organisation, which is involved in the distribution of excess food at parties and functions to the slum dwellers. I also spoke about the Gadag Hospital and the orphanages there. I hope someone gets connected with the Gadag Mission Hospital with a desire to be of service to the poor

Parthasarathy was a real chatterbox, the hostel walls were reverberating "Bro....Bro...Bro.." He was the connecting link to all, causing everyone to bond together. Whether a boy or girl, young or old, all would be called Bro!!! I noticed that he was busy in his work as a team leader reporting over face-time, while keeping a low profile, jovially mingling with others.

I was thinking, if I had one day without bike riding,it would be great to be chatting and relaxing at the hostel and would have been great and getting connected with these smart young people.

I asked for a group photo and whoever was available joined in happily at that time.

From left, Karthik, Chitra, Divya, Khan, Myself and Parthasarathy

End Odometer reading 60,767 km. Total distance on Day 3 = 176 km

After that, I went to bed around 9 pm and slept.

27/05/2022 Friday:

I woke up to the alarm at 3 am got ready and checked out.As it was rather dark, the man at the front desk helpfully shone a flashlight while I fastened my luggage,. Divya Tyagi was awake and wished me a safe journey and then went back to bed. I was on the NH748 around 4:19 am. There was a sudden drizzle. I covered the front tank bank with the rain cover in which I had my camera. I prayed for a safe journey without rain. In a few minutes, the rain stopped. I saw a sign " prohibited for two-wheelers" on the Atal Sethu bridge only on the way back. I realized that I had ridden on the Atal Sethu bridge about 3 or 4 times by then.

From Mollem to Hubli, I was rather scared and was cautious of encountering an animal. But my ride was smooth without any incidents. I was stopped by the Karnataka police at the check post. The officer checked my Viaterra Claw tail bag by pressing from outside without opening it. He asked me whether I was carrying any liquor bottle. I said "No" and was allowed to go.

After entering Karnataka border from Goa

The long ride to reach home safely was always on my mind. I was praying and was a bit more cautious to properly hydrate and energize myself with water and food. I stopped every 100 km and took a short standing break from my bike seat. I drank enough water, while I was riding back home. The memory of the abdominal muscle cramp that I had on first day of the trip was lingering in my mind.

Somewhere after Hubli

Wind mills on all mountains from Hubli to Chitradurga

I stopped near Hotel Durga Family restaurant, somewhere on the highway near Chitradurga. I parked in front of the entrance to restaurant, so that I could have an eye on the luggage rack. I took the tank bag and helmet with me and sat at the dining table.

A few minutes later, I saw another biker parking and entering the restaurant. I ordered onion dosa and a tea. It took some time. When I asked the waiter why there was such a delay while others were being served, he replied that I had ordered a thicker dosa and it will take time. He spoke in Hindi. I could understand a few words like " Paper roast nahi, Badi Motta dosa". When I was served, yes it was thicker, we call it oothappam. It was seasoned with chilli powder, onion, corriander leaves and served with potato sabji, sambhar and chutney. The waiter asked me whether I wanted tea now or later. Thinking of that time it had taken for Badi motta dosa, I said I wanted it immediately. He brought it to me immediately. Then he said you are going to drink it cold, watching me eating slowly. "Garam nahi, Thanda hi". My hidden Hindi part of my brain was functioning well.Thank God. I could enjoy the waiter's humour.

As I was about to leave, I met the other biker in the restaurant. He was Akilesh, riding from Belagavi to Bangalore, on his KTM 390. He said he was not a regular rider but was associated with a riding club in Bengaluru. We exchanged greetings for a safe journey. I started riding at my own pace and in few minutes, Akilesh whisked past me, waving goodbye.

I was thinking that I would have to go on the same route that I came but somewhere near Sira, The google maps diverted me to take a turn towards Chikaballapura.

I had a problem with my X grip Chevik mobile holder on the way back home.The rubber ball which was under the X grip unit got broken or worn . Hence the mobile unit was dangling on the charging wire. I tried fixing the ball and when I found that it was impossible with out the rubber ball component, I removed my mobile and kept it in the front pocket of my riding jacket. I was still connected to the GPS voice guidance with my Bluetooth earbuds. Whenever the voice did not guide me at complicated junctions in certain adjoining rural roads, I had to stop my bike and take the phone out to look at it. All for good. Frequent stop kills road rage.

Before Chintamani, I filled up with 10 litres of fuel after hitting the reserve tank. I prefer Indian oil petrol bunks as there is Rs 10/- cash back reward in Tamil Nadu. I still stuck to Indian oil bunks on this trip outside Tamil Nadu as well.

I went past Mulbagal, and Palamner. The roads were traffic free and it was remote with few village crossings. I was going on roads through small hills and ghats. I stopped and ate a Peanut bar. I drank as much water as I could. I washed my face with water now and then, whenever I stopped.

After Palamner, I was going very fast on the highway, and remembered that accidents were more likely on the return journey, especially on the last leg.

During a water break on the highway near Chintamani

During a water break on the highway near Palamner

I thought for a moment about the poet Robert Frost and the famous lines " ...and miles to go before I sleep and miles to go before I sleep". The poet was able to take time and watch the snow falling on the wooden logs in the forest while going through the forest late in the evening as it was getting dark.

Though the Google maps showed that I should reach home by 7.30 pm, I took time off to take some photos of the countryside with my camera.

A lady in the process of separating husk from grains

Grazing Cattle

Roadside bunk shop

Truck loaded with pigs

Fields around the houses on the roadside

I reached home at 7.31 pm, having ridden for almost 14 hours, and my daughter was all smiles seeing me back again.

With my daughter

End Odometer reading 61,617 km. Total distance covered on day 4 = 850 km.

I thanked God for yet another beautiful trip to enjoy a bike ride, meet new people and make meaningful connections for a wonderful cause.

Riding Statistics

Rider : Tilak Francis

Bike : RE Classic 350 BS IV.

Total Distance = 1,948 km

Total fuel consumed = 50 Litres

Total fuel cost = Rs 5,064/-

Average Mileage = 38 km/liter

Repairs = Nil (lubricated chain on the end of 1st day, but forgot after that)

Food and other Expenses

24/05/2022 Tuesday

Rs 100/- for tender coconut.

Evening tea , snacks and dinner at ClarksInn , hosted by Dr Ajay Raju

25/05/2022 Wednesday

Morning tea Rs 10/-

Breakfast at Hotel Kamat Rs 155/-

goSTOPSGoa AC 8 bed dormitory (2 nights) Rs 1250/-

Dinner at Noronha's corner Rs 360/-

26/05/2022 Thursday

Parking bike at Kulem Rs 50/-

Breakfast with tips Rs 100/-

Jeep ride Rs 500/-

Life jacket Rs 40/-

Dudhsagar Forest entry Rs 100/-

Camera charges Rs 50/-

1-litre water bottle Rs 20/-

Flavoured milk Rs 30/-

Aquada Fort bike parking Rs 50/-

Aquada Fort entry ticket Rs 25/-

Alif restaurant late lunch Rs 140/-

Late evening masala tea with tips at goSTOPSGoa Rs 50/-

26/05/2022 Friday

Breakfast and tea Rs 102/-

Total food and staying expense = Rs 3,132/-

Total trip cost = Rs 8,196/-

Comments

AnonymousJune 21, 2022 at 4:10 AM
Fantastic trip and ride Tilak. Sad I missed it this time..... As always your writing is simple, engaging and giving all the necessary information. Lovely that you can ride like this...keep more coming.... hope to join you on the next ride. God Bless. Jacob (Pramodh) Prakash

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